In Spring, the Asparagus Is Always Greener

Thank heavens for the lowly shoot of the lily family plant known by the Persian word for sprout, “asparag.” The British, for a brief period in the 18^th century, called it sparrow grass. Too many of us today think of it only as a vegetable side dish. But it can be a versatile component of so many dishes – soups, quiches, tarts, and casseroles.

For those of us living in the northern climate, one of the joys of early spring – other than the lack of snow – is the availability of locally grown asparagus. I’ve grown up with asparagus. My local hometown in Illinois was the home of Rochelle Asparagus, and, approaching the town from the east on Lincoln Highway in the 1950s, you were greeted by a large Rochelle Asparagus sign. Back then, large fields of asparagus were a common sight, and at this time of the year, mostly Hispanic migrant laborers began arriving to do the back-breaking job of harvesting the young asparagus crop.

Asparagus for dinner

As a side dish, we usually toss the whole spears in olive oil and kosher salt and roast it in the oven at 450 degrees for 10 minutes or so. It wasn’t until recently that I’ve come to appreciate the broad range of asparagus dishes. Of course, it can still be simple, for example: our recent dinner of a classic Italian asparagus salad with hard-boiled eggs, making use of a simple lemon-vinegar vinaigrette along with capers and chopped fresh parsley, chives, and tarragon. Here’s a recipe for wok-tossed asparagus in garlic from Vietnam, where it’s becoming popular. And the New York Times recently published this recipe for stir-fried spicy asparagus.

And for dinner parties

But let’s give this sparrow grass its due, especially if you’re starting to think about dishes for pod-safe, vaccinated, socially distanced dinner guests. Melissa Clark, one of my favorite food writers, recently offered an asparagus, goat cheese, and tarragon tart. You could always substitute parmesan for the goat cheese, as in another recipe. For variation, how about a tomato, asparagus, and prosciutto tart? Then there are soups. Here’s an easy potato and asparagus soup.

Thinking tapas? How about a tortilla de esparragos? This classic, simple recipe for a Spanish tortilla uses just asparagus spears broken into ¾-inch lengths, sauteed until tender, cooked with whisked eggs in an omelet. If you can put your hands on some cippolini onions, here’s an asparagus and cippolini quiche. You might try substituting some mild spring onions for the cippolini. And here’s a simple Sicilian meal of potatoes and asparagus all’ericina.

Asparagus pairs well not only with potatoes, mushrooms, eggs, and cheese; it also makes a great offset to beans. I’ve come to love cooking with good beans, and here’s a dish that pairs cranberry beans with asparagus. Asparagus also likes chicken. How about this easy chicken with wholegrain mustard and asparagus? Stir fries are a simple approach. And if you prefer beef, a Chinese favorite is stir fry with beef and asparagus. And there are always pasta dishes. Almost any kind of pasta pairs with asparagus, whether you prefer it simple, just pasta and vegetable, or with a cream sauce.

You’ve got to love this spring vegetable. It’s simple, flavorful, and just the right antidote for all those heavier winter stews and soups. Keep in mind the words of the Roman Emperor Augustus. When he wanted to put an end to some disagreeable business, he’d proclaim: “Let it be done quicker than you would cook asparagus.”

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