Eat Like a Canadian

One of the best parts of traveling is the ability to sample what the locals eat. On a recent trip to Montreal, I had a chance to try some foods that were new to me. There is plenty of French cuisine, of course, but I also found Greek and Indian establishments and dined on Caribbean fusion, Haitian, Vietnamese, and Japanese specialties. And what’s hot among Quebecers (both in popularity and spice) is piri piri chicken, thanks to a prominent Portuguese community.

Montreal also has its own treasured home dishes: delicious smoked meats, tourtière (a meat pie), fèves au lard (baked beans with lard), pậté chinois (similar to shepherd’s pie), and cretons de porc (minced pork spread).

The original poutine

Yet the dish most often associated with the city and the Province of Quebec is poutine. If you travel there, you’ll have no trouble finding a restaurant serving this local dish. It’s a menu option that was likely designed by consumers rather than by chefs. That’s probably why you’ll find a number of local restaurants in the province claiming credit. One of the best origin tales comes from a Warwick, Quebec establishment where in the late 1950s, a diner and regular customer named Eddy Lainesse suggested that a handful of amply available cheese curds be added to a takeout bag of fat French fries. Owner Fernand Lachance says he replied: “ça va te faire une maudite poutine!” (“that will make a damned mess!”). Still, he served the concoction. Diners began adding ketchup or vinegar, and within a few years, Lachance began serving the dish with hot gravy to keep it warm. That’s the basic recipe that has made poutine a Canadian national dish today.

And “gourmet” poutine

Like American nachos, poutine has taken on an entirely new identity, evolving considerably from simple diner snack food. Some 20 years ago, a Montreal chef began serving a foie gras poutine that influenced restaurants across Canada. Poutine has become quite trendy and can be found in northern regions of the U.S., as well. In Montreal, one of the best (and most varied) poutine menus can be found at La Banquise. The restaurant serves not just the classic but also more than 30 other versions such as La Elvis with beef, green peppers, and mushrooms; La Dan Dan with pepperoni, bacon, and onions; and La Southwest with bacon, red onions, guacamole, onion rings, and Banquise sauce. Are you a fan of BBQ? How about La Boogalou, a poutine with pulled pork, creamy coleslaw, and sour cream? Vegan? You could order La Veggie Reggie with veggie meatball, pickles, tomatoes, creamy cabbage, and Banquise sauce. And if you like it spicy, try La Reggae with ground beef, guacamole, tomatoes, and hot peppers.

As for me, I’m planning another culinary adventure to Montreal soon … perhaps when it warms up a bit.

NOTE:  I had a big laugh when I searched Shutterstock for a photo to accompany this piece. I typed in “poutine” and hit search. What my screen showed were photos of Vlad Putin — more than 10 before a single photo of the Montreal dish. Of the first 25, 20 were photos of the Russian. So much for artificial intelligence. Or maybe Vlad is really a dish of greasy potatoes topped with cheese curds and gravy.