A Simple Summertime Dip: Cowboy Caviar
Every once in a while, especially in the summer, it seems, an old recipe comes back into popularity. It might be Jello-O, deviled eggs, macaroni salads. Who knows? The latest is cowboy beans: a black bean salad, originally concocted by Helen Corbitt in Texas using typical Southwest flavors. Corbitt, who later became the foodservice director for the Zodiac Room at Neiman Marcus in Dallas, first served the dish at the Houston Country Club on New Year’s Eve in the early 1940s. It came to be called “Texas Caviar” or “Cowboy Caviar” when served at the Driskill Hotel in Austin as a humorous comparison of the key ingredient, black beans, to true caviar.
I’ve seen it referenced at least half a dozen times in the past month in the recipe blogs I receive. In fact, at old standby at our house is a version from the 1980s-era cookbook Betty Crocker Southwest Cooking. This one calls for a can of black beans, chopped ripe olives, and chopped onion and garlic mixed with vegetable oil, lime juice, and spices: cumin, red pepper flakes, and chili powder. The mixture is evenly spread on cream cheese, then topped with two chopped hard-boiled eggs and sliced scallions. Just right for scooping up with tortilla chips.
Corbitt’s original recipe featured black-eyed peas. She invented it when asked to write a menu using only Texas products. Though she didn’t like black-eyed peas herself, she decided to pickle them in oil and vinegar with garlic and onions. Her creation became so popular that Neiman Marcus canned it and sold it in stores.
The recent popular versions seem to more closely resemble salsa, with diced tomatoes, bell peppers, jalapeños. and cilantro (like the one pictured above). Most use a combination of beans – typically black-eyed peas and black beans. Add-ins include shoe-peg corn or frozen sweet corn, diced avocado, and celery. Some leave out the tomatoes; some add chopped jalapeños. The dressing can include olive oil, lime juice, vinegar, sugar, and garlic powder. But from what I’ve found, only the old Betty Crocker version incorporates cream cheese.
Nonetheless, ever since Corbitt created the dish, every recipe recommends that you cover the bowl and refrigerate for a least a few hours before serving. Helen stored hers for two days and suggested up to two weeks before serving.
What’s a simple fry cook to do? Corbitt said you’ll need a plate and fork for her version. I prefer tortilla chips for mine. I added more spices to our old favorite, along with chopped fresh cilantro. I like the idea of a few more variations to version, with different beans, corn, and maybe chopped red bell peppers. But I think I’ll keep the cream cheese base. That’s all part of the fun. You do get to eat your experiments. The real question is: what’s going to hit the spot with your dining audience? The true measure is how fast it disappears from their plates.
