Farmboy’s Food (Hall) Fantasy of the Future

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Wouldn’t it be great if you could find an eating establishment where a group of people could not only find great food that’s tasty and affordable, but something that everyone is in the mood for? Barbecue lovers, vegans, pescatarians, those who prefer low-fat, gluten-free, spicy, or bland food – cuisines to satisfy the palates of every member of the group.

On a recent visit to New York City, Mrs. Farmboy and I had a fine and affordable dinner at a location that could serve as a model for what I think is a fantastic idea. The Urban Hawker market in midtown Manhattan was originally a concept of the late celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain. He envisioned a massive hall on a pier in the Hudson River populated by food stalls cooking 100 of his favorite foods. The reality that ultimately took shape is located not far from Times Square and features 17 vendors, many who relocated from Singapore – offering everything from clove-scented biryanis to prawn noodle soup and sushi.

The Urban Hawker was modeled after the fabulous hawker centers in Singapore where you can enjoy some of the best food in one of the most expensive cities in the world for less than US$5. (See the photo above.) The hawker food culture of this city is so remarkable that it has been added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanities in 2020. Many cities boast food courts, but Singapore has more than 100 of these open-air emporia, offering a variety of cuisines that reflect the city-state’s multi-ethnic makeup. One is even featured in the Hollywood movie Crazy Rich Asians. I read an article describing these centers noting that the biggest problem for diners is that with all the choices available, it’s difficult to decide what to sample.

We had that problem on our visit to Urban Hawker. While not nearly as large as the Singapore sites, New York’s version still presented a quandary. I was recovering from a cold, so I chose a bowl of miso soup. But I also wanted to try the famous Singapore signature fried rice, and over cocktails, our bartender recommended the fried chicken from Smokin’ Joe. I suspect when we visit again, I may consider the wok-cooked oyster omelet or the Hainanese chicken. Then again, I’ve never tasted chili crab.

Imagine bringing this concept to a city near you. I’m not talking about a food court with the usual chain restaurants. Think of all the empty offices and retail sites now in downtown areas. Imagine them filled with a buffet of small businesses that draw people to spend time there. If I were to hit the lottery’s big jackpot, I might buy the local retail space formerly occupied by K-Mart that’s been sitting empty for years. Assuming I could get the appropriate state and city approvals, I’d fit it with a series of stalls and recruit some of the top food truck operators in the area. I’d also encourage local artists and craftspeople to set up shop there. That would be so much fun and a great business opportunity for everyone.

Have you had an experience like this?

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