The Many Delights of Baked Beans

A half-century ago when I was serving in the Army, my boss periodically ate lunch at his desk. To my curiosity, one of his periodic lunches was a baked bean sandwich, a taste sensation that I had never experienced growing up in Illinois. He hailed from the western New York steel-mill town of Lackawanna, near Buffalo, and I attributed it to a regionalism. But recently, I’ve come to know that the sandwich has a more storied career. Any sandwich with its own Wikipedia citation is worth discussing. Furthermore, the 1945 U.S. Navy cookbook has a recipe for a bean sandwich using canned beans cooked with evaporated milk and served on white bread. The sandwich also made an appearance in the 1972 Farm Journal Country Cookbook: New England baked beans served on brown bread from a can, with ketchup as a condiment.

Better yet, I’ve since learned that two of my subscribers, both native New Englanders, eat baked bean sandwiches regularly. Both recounted that when they were growing up, their families ate baked beans and hotdogs on Friday or Saturday night, then any leftovers were available for sandwiches the following day.

An August 2020 ode to the sandwich in Yankee Magazine described various versions of the treat. As a testament to the passion and tradition surrounding bean sandwiches, the online version of that Yankee story has more then 140 comments from individuals all over the country discussing their relationship with beans and bread. Their varied versions of the sandwich show the full range of experience.

Why not peanut butter?

Most begin with white bread, but others, especially those with New England ties, often use brown bread from a can. Also cited are anadama bread, rye, and even waffles. The Farm Journal baked bean stack-up uses halved hotdog buns. Mostly the beans used are leftover baked beans, but occasionally they are simply sourced from a can of Campbell’s Pork and Beans. Condiments are usually mustard or ketchup, but some bean sandwich lovers prefer mayonnaise (and seem to be particular about the brand). Some bean sandwich aficionados have come to appreciate certain additions, particularly cheese. Other adventurous bean sandwich gourmands have discovered accompaniments such as an onion slice, cole slaw, bologna, or bacon. One even favors adding peanut butter. As for a finish, some, particularly those who savor a slice of cheese, grill or broil the sandwich before wading in.

While the origin of this sandwich is obscure, it begins to appear in cookbooks in the early 1900s. No one source has been identified, and no one has stepped forward to claim the mantle of inventor. Nonetheless, the bean sandwich has been found in bean-loving societies such as Great Britain, where beans are a common element of the full English breakfast. In that part of the world, baked beans are served on toast and tucked into a grilled cheese. And the tradition has traveled through the empire to Australia, as well.

Of course, this approach to using the protein-rich beans is echoed in other cultures, particularly in Mexico. Oaxaca has its own molletes, a black bean toast in which Mexican bread rolls are smeared with black bean paste and broiled low, then covered with shredded queso Oaxaca (string cheese) until the cheese starts to melt. They’re garnished with jalapeños, salsa, and chorizo and served with a fried egg or leftover meat. And, of course, there are bean quesadillas and tortas.

And a wine pairing, of course

In closing, the Website Cards of Wine suggests a wine pairing for baked bean sandwiches: champagne, cava, Metodo Classico (Italy), or Sekt (Germany). For those who prefer red, try merlot or shiraz. I also read that some Mainers prefer Moxie with their bean sandwiches. (Editor’s note: You cannot make this stuff up.)

I hope this tale brings forth a lot of comments. Please share.

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