Farm Stories

How Do You Say Cheese?

Thinking about amplifying the flavor of dishes in my last blog led me to think more about adding cheese to a variety of dishes. In this day and age, there’s no lack of choices concerning cheeses. That’s progress. Growing up, we had a lot of meals using Velveeta, which offered convenience in a big box of orange-colored processed cheese. For 1950s homemakers, it was a product that could be kept in the refrigerator for months to be used in mac and cheese and other cheesy dishes thanks to its clump-free melting ability. As a kid, I ate many a Velveeta-enhanced casserole without suffering any apparent chemical imbalance.

But back then, we weren’t bereft of good cheese. I still remember returning from fishing trips to northern Wisconsin when the family always stopped at the same cheese shop in the central part of the state, about halfway home. There were big wheels of cheddar, Swiss, gouda, and other delicious selections, and we were offered samples. The stash that we purchased provided a new level of cheesy dishes until the supply ran out, and it was back to Velveeta and whatever else could be purchased locally.

Why it’s so good

These days, we don’t have an excuse for using processed cheese. Cheese is a wonderful way to add flavor and texture to an otherwise plain dish. The animal fats contained in a good cheese carry the chemical compounds that contribute to the flavor we enjoy. Those animal fats coat the tongue so that the aromatic compounds transporting flavor can prolong the interaction with the taste buds. Cuisines around the world have embraced cheese to amplify a dish. The Italians have lasagna, pizza, and salads with mozzarella; the Greeks have pastitsio, moussaka, and salads with feta. In the U.S., we’ve done the same with a number of our own casseroles and of course, cheeseburgers! Then there are the French, who are among the world’s greatest cheese producers, but typically don’t add them into their food, with the exception of cheese soufflé. Instead, they make cheese a separate course, often served with fresh baguette, crackers, and sweet and savory nibbles.

Here’s an example from my youth as we look towards summer. We used to cook hot dogs split, then filled with Velveeta and wrapped in bacon. When broiled in the oven, they were pretty good. For an update, how about using cheddar or maybe a good gruyère before wrapping in bacon, as Chef Wolfgang Puck does? How about using cheddar with your dogs, then covering them with sautéed apple? Thanks to the availability of ingredients, you can do a lot.

How to choose

Suppose you’re thinking of adding to your own recipe. Which cheese? Think about a balance of flavors: sweet/tart, like this watermelon salad with cucumbers, mint, and feta cheese. Once you have your cheese selected, then it’s just a matter of deciding how much to add and when, a system Samin Nosrat categorizes as “layering.” Since many cheeses melt, in most cases, you want to wait until a short time before serving to add the cheese into the hot food. That’s especially true of the more delicate cheeses with high water content. You needn’t worry so much about Parmesan, mozzarella, ricotta, cottage cheese, or feta as they won’t fully melt. And, if it’s a little dry, add some sour cream, milk, or an egg yolk.

If you’re thinking about adding cheese to a nice cool summer salad, just add the chunks of your favorite cheese along with a little vinaigrette. And the next time you’re thinking of adding a little cheddar or other favorite cheese to your burger, consider waiting until the last couple of minutes before removing the patty from the heat. Be sure to take the cheese out of the fridge and slice it in plenty of time so that it’s not ice cold when you top that burger.

Please pass the pasta al quattro fromaggi! Do you have a favorite?

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