Food Stories

Make Mine Meatballs (or, Fun with My New Meat Grinder)

I’ve discovered a new kitchen device after taking my own advice. In February while writing about sausage-making, I noted that KitchenAid was offering a sale on things like meat-grinder attachments for a standing mixer. I went for it, and it’s opened a new world of meatballs. Actually, having a meat grinder is a discovery from my past; on the farm, we had an old hand-crank contraption that I used to make ham salad.

Now, with my new one, I’m not dependent on what ground meat might be available at the market. More important, I can use the meats and cuts that allow me to achieve a particular flavor. And I can add things like peppers, nuts, onions, and other ingredients (like bacon) while grinding the meat. Finally, I can choose whether I want a coarse or a fine grind. Bring on the meatballs!

In a short time, I’ve learned that boneless chicken thighs, with some chicken fat attached, make for a better chicken meatball than is possible with most ground chicken found in the store. This could be just the beginning. I’ve added chopped bacon and jalapenos to the chicken thighs in the grinder to make a delicious spicy meatball. I’m thinking that it could also be a way to use up leftover meat or those chicken giblets that seldom get used.

The best part is making those meatballs into a meal. There can be no more universal protein offering. I’ve learned about the profusion of meatball recipes and flavors: koftes in the Middle East, albondigas in the Spanish-speaking world, pulpety in Poland, tsukune in Japan, and Lion’s Head in China. The main ingredient might be beef, pork, lamb, chicken, and even fish or different meat blends. (And just a note that you don’t need to grind your own meat to make them.)

The Moroccans slow cook a lamb meatball seasoned with herbs, paprika, and cumin in a clay pot in a stew with eggs in a spicy harissa tomato sauce. In Bangladesh, fish is minced; seasoned with chilies, garlic, and cumin; fried; then added to a thick gravy. Scandinavian meatballs made with a mix of pork and beef are pan-fried and served in a white gravy of dairy, flour, and stock. Let’s not forget Lion’s Head, the large Chinese meatballs made with pork and water chestnuts, served with boiled cabbage – said to resemble the mane of the lion – and often served simmered in broth. Finally comes tsukune. I’ve enjoyed these wonderful Japanese meatballs made with ground chicken, brushed with a sweet soy sauce and cooked over charcoal in the yakitori style.

And once made, your meatballs are not just for noodles. Think potatoes and gravy, soups, stews, salads, and casseroles. I’m going to try a Persian version: lamb or beef mixed with chopped pistachios, dried cherries, and spices, served in a white gravy. Najmieh Batmanglij, described as the grande dame of Persian cookery, says these meatballs can be made with ground turkey, chicken thighs, lamb, or boned and skinned ground fish fillets. She calls for pomegranate seeds, but it’s not available in the stores now, so I’m going with dried cherries.

The possibilities for meatballs are endless. What about you? If you’ve got an interesting meatball recipe, how about sharing with us?

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